From the splashy return of an early-2000s icon to the arrival to a sui generis seafood counter, new restaurants in Portugal’s capital are raising the bar higher and higher.
…Long before the global omakase trend took root in Lisbon, there was Yakuza—the city’s most see-and-be-seen-y spot for high-end sushi, and part of the culinary empire overseen by prolific chef-entrepreneur Olivier da Costa. Now he’s building on that with an omakase joint of his own. Mimi, which was “curated” by Yakuza, is a counter-seating restaurant that ushers just 30 guests each night into a 12-course culinary performance by sushi master Alex Hatano. (There’s also an à la carte menu, but that’s somewhat missing the point.) Hatano respects Japanese tradition and precision, but isn’t afraid of some contemporary innovation. He mostly emphasizes daily-changing products from Portuguese waters—angulata oysters from the Algarve, red snapper from Sagres, amberjack from the Azores—but, true to Olivier form, also splashes out for the best of the best. The menu includes rare Japanese wagyu, Italian truffle and Norwegian scallops…
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